Checking Wheel Alignment
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Put the bike up on the center-stand or a swing-arm stand. Loosen the rear axle and wheel adjusters.

Tie a string around both tires, low enough that it can cross under the bike without hitting the fairing etc., and low enough to clear the front disks. Of course this means the strings is down where the tires are curving in, so you'll need to stick the string to the tires with a piece of duct tape where it crosses the tread to keep it from sliding down. Try to get the string as tight as you reasonably can - you can tie a loop in one end of the string, run the other end through the loop, pull it tight and tie it down against the loop.

Cut a stick, piece of cardboard or something similar to the same width as the back tire (or slightly wider), with notches at either end. Stick this between the strings and slide it forward 'til it's just behind the front tire (try to get it reasonably perpendicular to the strings but this isn't crucial.)

Check the heights of the string where it last touches the tires - the height should be about the same on either side of the front tire, and the same on either side of the back tire (but again it's not crucial, and front and back don't need to be the same). Now measure the distance between the rear-most part of the front tire and the string where it passes close to it; adjust the steering to equalize them - this is the one measure that _is_ crucial, re-check it periodically as you mess around.

Look at the strings where they leave the rear tire. If your rear wheel isn't perfectly adjusted, the string will be touching the tire on one side but have a gap on the other (or the gaps on either side will be different sizes if your stick was a bit long). Adjust the rear wheel so that the string touches the tire on both sides or so the gaps are equal. Thump the rear wheel forward to make sure the adjusters are seated, then re-check that the front wheel is still equidistant between the two strings (probably won't be since you jostled the bike), then go back and check the rear, etc. until everything looks right. Tighten down the adjusters and the rear axle and you're done.

Now check the swing-arm marks for comparison. What I found was that my swing-arm marks were absolutely dead-nuts on (makes life easier :-) However another F2 owner found his marks to be one full mark off, so don't trust them until you're checked.


Disclaimer: This information has been been reviewed and, where possible, verified. We are not, however, responsible for any mistakes or omissions that have slipped past us. When in doubt, seek official verification.


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